INTERVIEW: Cleo Barbour
Since graduating last Summer, shoe designer Cleo Barbour has been busy turning all the right heads with the debut collection for her new label, Cleo B. Given the seal of approval from shoe impresario Charlotte Dellal, who apparently got in early to place her own order, her shoes are currently stocked by top fashion emporium, Dover Street Market. We caught up with Cleo to find out about her journey so far
How have you learnt your craft?
I spent four years doing a degree in footwear design at Cordwainers at the London College of Fashion which is where I built up my knowledge of shoemaking. During my studies I also undertook a number of work placements at companies such as LK Bennett, Nicholas Kirkwood and Georgina Goodman, as well as two months at Salvatore Ferragamo in Florence, which apart from being wonderful experience, taught me a lot about the business side of the industry. Working closely with the designers and company members, getting to know the ins and outs of running a footwear label has been incredibly useful for my career, not least as I’ve just launched my own line, Cleo B.
What led you to working in footwear design?
It wasn’t until the interview for the accessories degree at Cordwainers that I actually decided to specialise in footwear. Looking back, I’m so glad that I did! Shoes inspire me so much more than handbags, which I’d been making for a few years before. There’s always been something about their architectural nature and their ability to transform the foot that I’ve found fascinating.
If you had not discovered footwear design, what do you think you’d have become?
Definitely an artist, as I often think to myself how great it would be to have that complete creative freedom. I would like to have more time to continue with my own art projects, creating textiles using sewing and embroidery but, for now, I find expression in interior design at home, which I take quite seriously. In the end it all feeds into my work, providing me with an inspiring backdrop in which to be designing my shoes.
What piece of equipment do you find indispensable in your work as a designer, and what in you experience would you advise an aspiring footwear designer might invest in first?
During the design development stages I make a lot of vacuum forms of my lasts so that I can experiment in 3D with lines and shapes. So for me having access to a vacuum former is pretty essential. I also always have a stash of very fine erasers to rub out incorrect lines and a digital camera on hand for recording my designs at different stages. On a personal level, I couldn’t be without my computer, my blackberry, and my dog Suki, who I turn to for hugs when I have bad moments!
What is the most satisfying aspect of designing footwear?
Seeing my friends and family wearing the shoes and loving them. When I see a someone I don’t know wearing a pair of Cleo Bs that will be even better!
Where do you find inspiration for your designs?
Birds of paradise inspired my current AW09 collection and the Art Deco era is a big part of SS10. Lots of things catch my eye and stick with me, but usually there’s one particular subject or idea that comes to the fore. My subconscious seems to know before I do what direction I am going in. When I actually put pen to paper and start designing there’ll be some theme that will have kept re-occuring in my mind which I’ll follow.
What were your reasons for taking a course at P&M and what did you get out of it?
A friend recommended the course [Footwear Production Seminar] to me as I had always wanted to learn more the footwear market and get different perspectives. I found it very interesting as all the students wanted to approach the market from a different angle, plus the advice I got from listening to Aki [Choklat] was invaluable.
Would you recommend having your own business?
Yes. It gives you great freedom as you’re the decision maker and, if all goes well, it can be personally very satisfying. On the other hand, the challenge is that your job is with you 24/7- you can’t just walk away! Apart from anything else, it’s quite addictive.
What has been the highlight of your career so far?
Seeing my debut collection for AW09 finished and on the shelves of my first stockist, Dover Street Market, London. It’s like a dream!
One Response to “Cleo Barbour”