Slipper Making Workshop at Black Truffle, with Merry Bobbins

With the beautiful felted woolen jumpers and offcuts of quality sheepskin provided by the workshop, you will be having a lot of fun making indoor slippers. A great way to spend time in the afternoon! Paper pattern covering adult size 3-12 is also included so you can make more at home.

Slipper Making Workshop

Slipper Making Workshop

Workshop Location: Black Truffle, 4 Broadway Market, E8 4QJ
Time: 2-4pm, on Sundays 15 Jan, 22 Jan, 29 Jan, 5 Feb
Fee per person: £25
The booking link: click here

Tutor: Benjamin John Hall

Q: How have you learnt your craft?

Benjamin: I enrolled at Cordwainers College at the age of 18 and studied there for four years. After graduating I began work in the laboratories of Clarks International as a trainee Technical Manager. This involved testing shoes made in China and instructing factories how to make Clarks shoes the way they’d been made in the UK for over 180 years. This is where the real learning began. 

 After a while I moved back in to design to become a designer for Men’s International division working in some of the largest factories in China. 

I then went on to set up as a freelance designer which is what I do to this day, along with teaching and working on various other projects including my own more ideas-based work.   

Benjamin's work from AW11 stocked in Harrods, Selfridges and Liberty

Q: What led you to working in shoemaking?

Benjamin: When I was 13 my passion was skateboarding. After some time my shoes would always get destroyed when they abraded on the grip tape (a sandpaper that covers the skateboard). Early solutions were ‘shoe goo’ a liquid rubber in a tube that you used to cover the affected area on your shoes with, it looked terrible, like a dog had your shoes in its mouth for a week. In the following years I watched ardently as designers addressed this problem and was fascinated to see and experience the skateboarding shoe evolve from something inadequate to a highly functional fit for purpose product.

Also, growing up in London you can’t help but notice the power of the shoe in identifying people from different social standings or subcultures. Shoes have always been about kudos and can speak a thousand words in the glimpse of an eye. This has always been interesting to me.

Q: If you had not discovered shoemaking, what do you think you might have become?

Benjamin: Maybe a photographer.

Q: What are the most important things you’re trying to impart to your students?

Benjamin: When I began my first job in the footwear industry an old man told me that shoemaking is an art not a science. At the time I didn’t fully understand what he meant but I soon came to realise how fundamental this is in understanding shoes. There are some basic rules or science in shoemaking but those rules are constantly bent to adapt to the specific shoe at hand. Some students can be flummoxed by this as they sometimes expect a rule to be steadfast and applicable to all situations, but it rarely is.

From the artisan shoemaker to the factories in China everything begins with the human hand: from designing a shoe, modeling a last, cutting a pattern, lasting an upper or molding a sole unit. Mass manufacture is only a larger scale artisan: in the way the artisan uses a tool a factory might use a machine, machines can help us, but they still need to be calibrated and operated by the human hand. And it is in this sense that shoemaking is an art not a science.    

Benjamin In Class, With Student

Q:  What piece of equipment do you find indispensable in your work as a shoemaker, and what in your experience would you advise an aspiring footwear designer might invest in first?

Benjamin: As a shoemaker I find a scalpel indispensable, as opposed to a clicking knife. As for the aspiring footwear designer it depends what type of footwear designer you want to be but a good place to start would be with a pencil and a pad of paper.  

Scalpel v.s Clicking Knife

Q: Where do you find inspiration for your work?

Benjamin: It depends on the project. Freelance commercial work is very different from my own shoemaking work. In my personal work I’m mostly interested in the current zeitgeist and how we think about things and how we can change how we think about things. It’s really more about ideas, in which case the shoes become a medium to express a thought or a feeling.   

Q: Would you recommend going out on your own? And advice to people who want to set up their own shoe business?

Benjamin: I think anyone wanting to set up on their own will need to consider whether they have sufficient financial backing and the right contacts to do it. That’s essential. Also I think it’s important not to confuse what it is that you want to do. 

Making and designing shoes is one thing but running a business is an entirely different ball game, and perhaps not quite as fun!

Q: What has been the highlight of your career so far?

Benjamin: There have been many highlights: winning national design awards, designing shoes that have sold more than 150,000 pairs in one season, having design work published and having the opportunity to work on more artistic projects, in particular a current collaboration with Alexandra Groover which we screen at London Fashion Week. 

Benjamin's Collaboration with Alexandra Groover: Above - AW11; Below - SS12

Another recent highlight has been being involved in starting a new brand and having shoes I designed for AW11 stocked in Harrods, Selfridges and Liberty. 

From Sketch: Benjamin's work from AW11 stocked in Harrods, Selfridges and Liberty

I have also been fortunate to travel the world on company expenses and have been able to experience working in some of the best factories in the UK, Portugal, India, Italy and China.  And, I hope, having been able to inspire from time to time my students at Prescott and Mackay. Everything’s a highlight!

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To know more about Benjamin, watch the videos about his collaboration with Alexandra Groover, here for video 1, and here for video 2.

To know more about the Beginners Shoemaking Course that Benjamin teaches, please visit Prescott & Mackay website.

Shoe Label: Velieris & Co

The word Velieris (velie-ris) is Latin for ‘fleece’, which is derived from the historical principal of a shoe’s intent, which is to protect the body from environmental factors. Michael endeavors to design shoes that are comfortable and fit the foot while looking great at the same time. “I want to bypass the uncomfortable process of having to ‘break in’ the shoes before you can wear them and feel good in them,” says Michael.

C.E.O. & Creative Director: Michael Stosky

“I started out back in 2009 when I was on the campus of The Ohio State University and I saw two particular types of shoes that almost every girl wore on campus and so I came up with the idea of a hybrid version of both of the styles and it eventually evolved into a luxury shoe line from there. ” explains Michael about how the whole idea started.

Velieris Look Book SS 2012

“I want to create a luxury shoe brand that is of equal, if not better quality in craftsmanship and materials used within each design that can be comparable to other top luxury brands, but more affordable.  The world is going through an economic downturn right now and I want the people who are used to buying luxury but cannot afford it due to cut backs financially or whatever is on their plate to be able to still afford the luxury but at a cost that they would be comfortable with.”

He then found Prescott and Mackay through online research. “It’s tough to find a shoemaking class in the United States and once I saw what all they did, I just felt this would be a great class to go to. I learned so much just by making a pair of shoes that I can now communicate with the manufacturers to get the samples perfect after the first round of the prototype process. Melissa told me of some great ideas on getting materials for my shoes and showed me what is needed to be put into every construction of every shoe. The detail that she went into on every portion of the shoe creation, made me learn what it really takes to create a quality pair. I would most definitely refer people who wanted to get into shoe design to take these courses through Prescott and Mackay just because of how much they can learn from the experience.”

The Velieris Italian Leather Collection

Michael’s dream is to open a couple of boutiques featuring his line throughout the world and be as successful at Christian Louboutin and be known as a superior designer within the luxury shoe market. How would he advise people who want to start up their own footwear business? “Research as much as possible from resourcing a manufacturer to marketing your line and plan about 3 years before you actually launch your line,” says Michael, “you want to take your time and make sure that every aspect within your business is top notch so when you do launch your line, you are well prepared for whatever gets put in your way as an issue.”

“Starting up a company like this is like having a baby, you have to put it before anything and never lack in progress or your baby will never grow and it will struggle to stay alive. So if you help it grow, it will help you grow as a stronger business owner and person by heart in the future. There will be so many challenges you will be faced with, but if you stay strong, you will only grow to be a better business person and be more knowledgeable within the business.”

Are you feeling encouraged by Michael’s story? Don’t miss the upcoming shoe making courses in the USA: 
5-Day Intensive Shoemaking Class on Jan 23-27, 2012
2-Day Beginners Shoemaking Class on Jan 28-29, 2012 

Visi Michael’s website here: http://www.velierisandcompany.com/home.php

Wishing Michael and everyone who is reading this blog entry a happy Christmas and successful new year!

Student Kate recently took our Two-Day Beginners Bag Making course and sent us a warm message after the course:

“Just thought I’d forward to you a quick blog post I just did about my experience at the Beginner’s Bag course a few weeks ago.  Lesley was a really good teacher and I got a lot out of the class (including a new bag).
Happy Holidays
Kate“

Check the link above to see what she has learnt and made!

The best offer will be judged by our very own in-house Barista’s – Michael, Gabrielle and Hannah – and the lucky winner will get free coffee all week when we open up again in the New Year after the holidays.

So pop by the store, grab yourself a coffee, recycle the cup and get creative. Competition ends 23rd Dec and judged 24th. Offer open to Black Truffle customers as well as students of The Prescott & Mackay School of Fashion and Accessory Design.

Best of Luck! From all the team at Prescott & Mackay, Black Truffle and The 3 Little Pigs, 52 Warren St, London, W1T 5NJ

Rudolf the red nosed coffee cup

The history of Dents can be traced back to 1777, when John Dent established his accessory company manufacturing fine leather gloves in Worcester, England. In 1937 Dents had the honour of manufacturing the Coronation Glove worn by H.R.H. King George VI at his coronation. In 1953 Dents was again asked to manufacture the Coronation Glove worn by Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II at her coronation.

Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II's Coronation Glove Made by Dents' craftsmen - Dents Website

The Glove at the Coronation

The factory we are going to take our students to is the new one which will be opened by Princess Anne on this Friday December 9.

According to the award-winning Welsh architects Boyes Rees, who designed the £4 million factory: “The new unit includes a factory shop which will serve as a retail outlet to the public, as well as offices and meeting rooms to house Dents operational and administration staff. A showroom is also included within the design of the new building allowing Dents to showcase their products to visitors, and space that will house a museum has been included enabling Dents to display a historical representation of the company, including famous Dents pieces originally created for royalty and media, to visitors.”

Dents Factory Move

“I am writing to let you know what an impact the classes I enrolled in with P&M made on me.  Two years ago in November, I took the five-day intensive course with Melissa immediately followed by the two day course with Aki.  I walked away with an abundance of knowledge and an overwhelming feeling of “Can I do this?”  After attending your courses, I felt empowered and compelled to keep moving forward.  I am please to announce that I just launched my first collection of deeFind for the Fall/Winter Season 2011.”

Student's Success Story: DeeFind Shoes

“DeeFind’s beginnings were cultivated two years ago in pursuit of a dream. This idea unfolded, blindly, during one of my of high-heel internet searches when complete despair washed over me as my size 11-supermodel feet arrested any chance of attaining the beautiful designs dangling in front of me.  In this moment, it became as clear glass: Constructing high-fashion footwear for the everyday women in all sizes was inescapable.”

Designer - Dierdre Wallace

“Armed with a background in creative arts, I acquired a scorching thirst for developing a visually impactful sense of style and originality.  Shoes are one of the greatest forms of personal definition, I wanted to create beautiful works of art as well as introducing recycled and sustainable materials wherever possible.  Additionally, deeFind is a start-up company that thrives on the values of investing in our community; a portion of each deeFind purchase will be given to a special charity.”

“I heard about Prescott and Mackay through a friend, who had taken their five-day intensive shoe-making course.  Naturally, I thought this would be a great way to get a small taste to see if shoe designing would nourish my path.  Through this course I learned about materials and design, pattern cutting, closing, and the actual making of a shoe. ”

Dierdre at the 5-Day Intensive Shoemaking Class, Nov 2009

“Immediately after I followed up with a two-day intensive course, Introduction to Footwear Design, with international shoe designer Aki Choklat.  We discussed brief and intensive overviews of the footwear industry, creative design techniques, how to develop ideas from individual inspiration, and how to draw and expand from those ideas.  Aki also examined what became the most beneficial part to me—discussing what takes to actually create a label.  These courses helped solidify my ideas and responded to the unanswered questions I had.  Still, I left feeling overwhelmed.  Could I really do this?  I realized the only thing that stood in my way was fear and I would not succumb to it.  This is my dream and exactly what I had been searching for.”

Tutor Aki's Footwear Design class in the USA

Dierdre then shared with us the challenge she had and gave everyone who wants to start-up a footwear business some advices: “I think the greatest challenge for me has been my learning curve.  Being completely new to this industry and jumping into it head on can be quite overwhelming at times!  I have made mistakes, but each one has been a blessing.  It is important to remain positive, keep pushing forward and trusting in my path.  It is a beautiful moment watching everything falls into place.  My advice to individuals who have a dream to design shoes is to simply reach for the stars and go hard.  You can do anything you put your mind to, but persistence is key.  Oh, and also you need a really great team!  I wouldn’t be where I am if it wasn’t for some crucial individuals.”

Some beautiful shoes from the deeFind collection:

deeFind: Grania

deeFind: Zoelle

You can see more styles from the deeFind website.

When talking about her business views, Dierdre said: “deeFind’s future dream is to create a fully recyclable, fashion forward high heel shoe.  Each collection, I am adding a new element to help promote sustainability and upcycling, while providing a feminine ferocious artistic shoe.  For our Spring/Summer 2012 Line, we will be incorporating recycled heels and soles.  Also, our boxes and tissue paper will be made from recycled materials.” (To read the complete deeFind story, please visit www.deefind.com/about/).

DeeFind shoes will host a holiday launch event  “ALL OF THE LIGHTS: A Season of Feminine Ferocity”, December 9, 2011—from 7:00 pm to 11:00 pm at Root Division Gallery in San Francisco. If you are there make sure you pop in to say hello to Dierdre and send her our greetings!

To find out more about our courses, click here for the 5-Day Intensive Shoemaking class in the USA, and click here for the 2-Day Introduction to Footwear Design class.

Reblogged from La Maison de Florence:

It has been a year since I made my first pair of shoes by hand. I’ve completed three sessions of the Shoemaking Evening Class at Prescott & Mackay – the two pairs below were made during this period. I’ve gained a lot of confidence on my shoemaking skills via these courses. Some of the students might ask why they can still feel uncomfortable wearing their handmade shoes. Shouldn’t all the handmade shoes be super …

Lineapelle (coutesy to Lineapelle Press)

There are several halls specialising in a particular area of the industry, ranging from tanneries and leather suppliers, synthetics, accessories – (hardware, trimmings, fittings for bags, shoes, etc), components – (shoe lasts, heels, soles, small metal parts,  stiffeners, glues etc), and machinery. Basically the exhibition is categorised into the following sectors:
- Tanners
- Accessories
- Components
- Synthetics
- Textiles
- Models

There is also a section on Schools which Prescott & Mackay has, in the past, attended as an exhibitor. The show is a perfect place for Prescott & Mackay students to obtain an overall view to the leather market, get inspirations, do trend research, meet suppliers face to face, and source components.

Footwear components at Lineapelle (coutesy to Lineapelle Press)

Only the leading world manufacturers can apply to exhibit at the show. Prescott & Mackay has been attending the show for many years, and have taken students there as part of the Footwear Professional Development Course.

Detail of the Trend Forecasting for AW12 + at Lineapelle

The show has an extensive Trend Section as you enter the Fair, aimed at giving Designers, Production Managers and industry Students and Professionals a taste of what trends are predicted for the following season in terms of leather, textile, and hardware. The image above is a sneak preview from one of the showcases that is forecasting trends for AW12 and beyond. Details are given on each item displayed in the trend section on who produces it and their booth number which can then be located in one of the halls.

Social Gathering in a Restaurant

Lineapelle also provides a good opportunity to improve the collaboration with industrial insiders. During the last evening of our stay in Italy, we had a nice gathering at a restaurant called Trattoria Pizzeria Napoleone in Florence. It was a chance to catch up with everyone in more social circumstances. Our principal Melissa Needham shared a meal with her colleague and fellow lecturer – Aki Choklat  and several other industry specialist from London College of Fashion, Ferragamo, Polimoda – where Aki also lectures, and the highly respected Finnish school – Wetterhoff.

Click here to check out the Lineapelle website

To register your interest for our Footwear Professional Development Course 2012, click here

Marion Ayonote:

2002 – received special recognition award from Ovation Magazine as Africa’s top shoe designer
2002 – listed as one of the top 50 most influential female designers in the UK by the Design Association
2005 – awarded membership to the Chartered Society of Designers
2009 - won a special recognition award from BFIIN British female inventors and innovator’s network
2009 - engaged in design projects such as Knowledge Connect which was part funded by the L.D.A (London development Agency) and the ERDF (European Union Regional Development Fund), in collaboration with Prescott & Mackay

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When did you start to design shoes and bags and when did you set up your brand?
I began experimenting with developing my label since 1998,  however I set up the Marion Ayonote label in 2000.

Velukid peep toe pumps with lem gold bubbles on heel and upper. Marion Ayonote A/W 2006

How did you find factories to produce your design?
I relied on the commercial department of the Embassy (In this case Italy) and was sent a list of manufacturers and contact details. so I sent letters by fax as most contacts on the list spoke Italian and emails were not as popular.

2 part high heel shoe, velukid upper + vintage feathers. Marion Ayonote A/W2006

Could you please tell us the story about the Icon Bag Series and your collaboration with Prescott & Mackay?
I had designed the concept for a specific occasion and had been to a few factories to try to develop initial prototypes but they found the collection a bit overwhelming so the timing with Knowledge connect and Prescott & Mackay couldn’t have been much sooner.  

The Icon Bag Series Project

“The Icon capsule collection was developed for  the 50th independence anniversary of  the federal republic of Nigeria. I had designed a capsule collection of handbags drawing inspiration from the map of Nigeria, its borders and the river outline. The ridged edges made the Icon bag difficult to develop but thankfully, Prescott & Mackay developed the prototypes and the final samples. “

The Icon Bag: Map of Nigeria

“We also used the aso-oke fabric (hand woven silk threads) as the main material and lined the bags with suede in contrasting pastel and bold colours. The components include Swarovski crystals, horn handles, trimmings, ribbons and beads, zip holders and tassels. I am still receiving enquiries and orders for the  IA & Heritage bags. We are currently developing the wallets from the Icon range in Italy. “ 

Black Aso-oke Clutch Bag - Tasha

Love Icon Bag - Purple Aso-Oke

Have your got any positive feedbacks/awards from this project and how did the project influence you?
The project was a success, I received a special recognition award from BFIIN( British female innovators & inventors network) in 2009.  Also, positive feedback and new market opportunities for the range.

Details of some Aso-oke couture bags

Please give some advices to people who are interested in shoes and bag design, particularly those who want to start up their businesses.
I would suggest they have a realistic business plan and sales strategy. Research their chosen market before embarking on a label launch. Use all available support. Work hard!

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Marion’s website: www.ayonote.com

If you are an independent designer and seeking a mentor or consultancy services from industry experts, please contact Prescott & Mackay via info@prescottandmackay.com, or call +44 (0)207 388 4547.