INTERVIEW: Aki Choklat
Finnish shoe designer Aki Choklat spent eleven years climbing the corporate ladder before he decided to take the plunge and follow his design dream. Ten years on, he runs his own successful label, writes books and lectures around the world, including at Prescott & Mackay which, he says, is always close to his heart
How have you learnt your craft?
At first I was self taught but then later I learnt the craft idea and the design process from studying at the Royal College of Art. I always really enjoyed fashion and because my grandmother was a seamstress I learnt to sew at a really early age. Sewing was always something I found fun growing up- I would often customise vintage clothing to update them. Looking back it also gave me an understanding of patterns and how materials react to the body which is an important principle in design. Later, in my thirties, as a sideline to my job at American Express, I got involved with my sisters’ business importing Moroccan clothes and accessories and began updating Moroccan footwear for street wear, making alterations and ordering my own models from Morocco. When people started buying them an Italian manufacturer stopped by and said if I was interested in making them commercially that I could make them with him and that’s were it all started. It was a real ‘baptism of fire’. After a couple of years I moved on to work for a Portuguese shoe factory designing for my first label, Jubaki. I have to say, there is no better learning experience than working in a shoe factory. I learnt so much from having to sit in the factory floor, translating my designs to a model maker and even make patterns. Through the success of the Jubaki label I was invited to talk to the students at the RCA which subsequently led to me going back to college. I graduated in 2003 and launched my label under my own name and I haven’t skipped a season yet.
What led you to working in footwear design?
A love of shoes and realising, after eleven years of a successful corporate career at American Express, that something was wrong, that I was profoundly unhappy, despite having money, a house and no bills to worry about. After a few years of doing footwear on the side I took the plunge and quit my job at American Express which was scary- all of a sudden not having a steady income- but I haven’t looked back since.
If you had not discovered footwear design, what do you think you might have become?
I think I’d probably still be somewhere in the American Express tower in lower Manhattan being a bigwig in middle management, assisting card members!
In what ways does teaching influence your work as a designer?
The only thing that really inspired me as a designer is the new students’ enthusiasm. It’s contageous and amazing when it “clicks” and you know that the student has made a right choice. I hope I can inspire my students with my story mainly. It’s never too late to start doing what you always wanted to do and start living your dream.
What are the most important things you’re trying to impart to your students?
Take it easy! Take a few classes, learn the craft, observe, network, dream and if it’s meant to happen it will.
What piece of equipment do you find indispensable in your work as a designer, and what would you advise an aspiring footwear designer might invest in first?
As a footwear designer the great thing is that all you need is paper and something to draw with. But to be honest, one thing I cannot live without is a scanner- I’m scan crazy! It’s mainly for technical drawings and creating documents for emailing suppliers etc.
What is the most satisfying aspect of designing footwear?
Seeing someone wear your designs. Also, I love to draw so I find designing therapeutic. Getting to draw and doodle and pull ideas from research into a sketch book gives me great satisfaction. In reality though, there’s not much time for that, perhaps one afternoon a month. It’s also fun to interact with my team and discuss ideas and design development- nerdy stuff basically.
Where do you find inspiration for your designs?
Everywhere. Museums, books, stories, people, relationships, travel, the street, life in general. There are endless wonderful things in life that you can pull from. I’m constantly being hit by inspiration. I’m not going to give away all my secrets of course, but I look to things like science magazines. Similarly, instead of going to Premier Vision, the yarns and textiles show in Paris, I’ve started to go to the concrete show. A lot of my friends are architects and engineers so I might go to a machinery fair too. Once I saw kitchen tiles that when water drips on them it created patterns. How can that be brought into our industry? Recently I’ve really started to look to ideas in contemporary art. I feel that they are the ones really pushing the buttons now. So the Frieze Art Fair and the Venice Biennial are really great places to look. You can find great colour ideas and combinations which go into product development, branding or packaging.
Would you recommend having your own business?
I don’t recommend starting your business without learning about the industry first. Go and get the experience and then you’ll be better equipped to run your own business. The footwear industry has so many aspects, from being a buyer for a shop to being a designer for a brand, being a trend person, being a colourist. So go out there, try to find something and see where it takes you.
Do you have any other advice for people looking to follow in you footsteps?
I’d say do not follow in my footsteps! My brand is the result of my crazy experience backwards. The best advice is to take the short courses, figure it out, get a bit of taste and by the end of the first day you’ll know if this is for you. After that there are numerous options. It is good to do a short course in design and a short course in making, because you can be a maker or you can be a designer, it’s very difficult to be both. Myself, I’m definitely a designer. I absolutely do not want to make another pair of shoes as long as I live. I enjoy the process, but it’s not for me at all!
What has been the highlight of your career so far?
When my first season went to Harvey Nichols it was like a dream. Seeing someone buy my shoes, carrying three boxes to the cashier was pretty amazing. Plus the fact that the cycle was complete, from design, production, selling to the retailer and somebody buying them.
One Day Interpretation of Footwear Design
One Day Footwear Production Seminar
Two Day Intensive Introduction to Footwear Design
Two Day Footwear – Intensive Introduction
The Last - Prescott & Mackay's Blog 
I just finished a summer study abroad course with Aki, and it was excellent. Highly recommend for anyone, even if your not into shoes.
When is your next class in the us
Hi Tina,
We are running an Intensive Introduction to Design course in New York in March and then we have an Intensive Course and a Beginners Shoemaking Course in Berkley in May. Check out the US page on the website for more details.
Aki…I am so proud that you persued your dream and have become a success with some “Banging Shoes!” how have you and the family been? Would love to reconnect. I’m still in Jersey with a graduate degree as a reading specialist, and a second grade classroom. It’s been over ten years…is Yasmina in Finland?
Congrats Again…Alexandra